How Human Hair Extensions Are Graded or Classed

Virgin, Remy, or 100% Human. How do you know which one to buy?

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What does it mean to classify or grade hair extensions

Human hair extension’s “classification” or “grade” identifies its quality and describes the hair’s history.  Its quality can be high, medium, or low.

How is human hair sourced

Human hair is collected from donors spanning various regions.  Human hair collection happens through a donation by the owner of the hair or purchasing directly from the donor.  Some manufacturers may collect scraps of hair from hair brushes or the floors of salons, and some may import large amounts of rejected hair from certain Asian regions.   

So how do we know which class or grade hair extensions fall in?

What are human hair extensions classified by

Human hair extensions are classified by their cuticle alignment. They are also classified by whether or not they have been exposed to “any” kind of chemical processing such as hair coloring, perming, heat styling, or anything else that alters their natural state.

What are the different classes of human hair extensions

Human hair extensions are generally made with “real human” hair and is classified as follows:

  • “Raw” hair (Considered High Quality)
  • “Virgin” hair (Considered High Quality)
  • “Remy” hair (Considered High Quality)
  • “100% human hair (Considered Low Quality)

On the label or any other marketing tool, the accuracy of the hair extension’s quality is highly dependent on the integrity of the supplier, manufacturer, vendor, and retailer.  If marketing is inaccurate or deceptive the end product will generally reveal this.

What is Raw hair

Raw hair is sourced from one donor and is in its natural state when sold. It is not processed in any way.  Find out more about raw hair here.

What is virgin hair

To be considered virgin, hair must have no previous chemical or heat treatments. 

Because it is in its virgin state it is the healthiest-looking hair and tends to be stronger and last longer than other options.

Confusion ALERT:

  • Some manufacturers or vendors may state that their hair is “Virgin” human hair.
    • Scenario #1: they may be saying the hair was pure unaltered virgin hair when they sourced it and it is still pure unaltered virgin hair.
    • Scenario #2: they may be saying the hair was pure unaltered virgin hair when they sourced it, but they have now altered the hair in some way.
    • Scenario #3: they may be using the word as a marketing tactic to convince you to make a purchase.   Continue reading for more.

Where does Virgin hair come from

Virgin hair may be cut or shaved directly from one donor or multiple donors. 

Virgin hair cuticle alignment

The cuticles of Quality Virgin human hair extensions face the same direction which is the direction of natural hair growth (down).  

By aligning and preserving the hair cuticles in one direction, it maintains the natural look and feel of the hair.

How is virgin hair cleaned

To prepare them for use as hair extensions, Virgin human hair is often inspected for lice and other insects or parasites washed multiple times with shampoo, and conditioned.  To preserve its “virgin” status the use of chemicals may be avoided. 

Some manufacturers may use certain cleansing practices like the use of hot water baths or chemical baths.  After this and other processes, VIrgin hair would then be considered “processed”.

How much does virgin hair cost

It is at the top end of the market and has a higher price tag.

Is all Virgin hair unprocessed

No, but, to be considered truly virgin it should be unprocessed

Is virgin hair only available in one texture

No.  Most virgin hair starts out as its natural texture which could be straight, wavy, or curly, however, once collected, the texture of some virgin hair may be altered using a steaming process to create varying curl and wave patterns.

Is virgin hair only available in one color

No.  Most virgin hair starts out with its natural color which could be natural black, natural brown, natural reds, and greys, however, once collected, the hair may be colored for the very first time.

What is Remy hair

Remy hair is hair that has all cuticles aligned.  It is considered high quality due to the focus on maintaining cuticle alignment.

Where does Remy hair come from

Depending on the manufacturer, Remy may be cut or shaved directly from one donor or multiple donors.  

Remy hair cuticle alignment

The cuticles of Quality Remy human hair extensions face the same direction which is the direction of natural hair growth (down).  

By aligning and preserving the hair cuticles in one direction, it maintains the natural look and feel of the hair. 

How much does remy human hair cost

Remy hair is highly sought after and tends to cost more.

Is all Remy hair unprocessed

No.  Remy hair can be processed or unprocessed.  Meaning it may or may not be chemically processed, steam processed or altered in some way. 

Is Remy hair only available in one texture

No.  Remy hair may start out in the donor’s natural texture which could be straight, wavy, or curly, however, once collected, the texture of some Remy hair may be altered using a steaming process to create varying curl and wave patterns.

Is Remy hair only available in one color

No.  Remy hair may start out in the donor’s natural color or it could have been dyed or treated prior to or after collection.

What is 100% human hair,  Non-Remy hair, Tangle Free Human Hair, or, Fallen Hair

Confusion ALERT:

  • Be aware that some manufacturers or vendors may state that their hair is “ONLY” 100% human hair.
    • Scenario #1: they may be saying they do not stock, offer or sell synthetic hair extensions.
    • Scenario #2: they may be saying that their hair extensions are not “MIXED” with synthetic or other fibers.
  • Be aware that some manufacturers or vendors may state that their hair is 100% human hair.
    • Scenario #3: the hair extension may be “FALLEN” or “imported reject” hair.  In this case, the “100% human hair” label is purely marketing.  Continue reading for more.

Where does 100% human hair come from

Hair “marketed” as 100% human hair or Non-Remy hair is any hair from a human scalp, meaning it can come from a reputable source, the floor of a hair salon, a brush, etc.  It often comes from multiple sources and is also known as “fallen” hair.  It can also be imported “reject” hair.

100% human hair cuticle alignment

The cuticles on 100% human hair do not lay in the same direction which leads to them getting snagged on each other.  The inconsistency of the cuticle’s direction results in hair that tangles early and often.

How do manufacturers stop non-remy hair from tangling

For some manufacturers, a solution to the tangling is to wash the hair in a strong acid bath which removes the cuticle layer, then coat the hair in silicone to give it a temporary, smooth tangle free finish.

Is all 100% human hair unprocessed

No.  Many hair extensions marketed as 100% human hair, tangle-free, or non-remy hair extensions may have been processed.

How much does 100% human hair cost

This type of hair tends to be the cheapest of all other types of hair extensions.

How long does 100% human hair last 

Depending on the brand, 100% human hair may last a few minutes to a few weeks. Even with proper care, it does not last very long.

Summary

A human hair extension grading or class system helps you identify the hair’s quality and its history.  The accuracy of this information is dependent on the integrity of the manufacturers, vendors, and retailers, however, understanding the grading or class system helps make the decision-making process much smoother.

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